Cooling System, Technical Tips, 1986-91 5000/200TQ
Some information applies to the 1992-95 Audi 100/S4/S6
Important Safety Information
Subsequently-Run System: Turbo Electric Water system Pump, Coolant Hoses
The Turbo charger has divide coolant append hoses as well arsenic oil supplying lines. When the engine is running, coolant flows from the cylinder block, enters the let down end of the turbo, then comes out the top and is routed through a pipe derriere the timing belt top, which and then connects to the coolant flange on the piston chamber head. The coolant flows through the top radiator hose and back to the radiator for cooling.
When the engine is shut off, and the engine coolant temperature at the exit of the cylinder head is above 110C, (230F) a secondary physical phenomenon water pump turns on, which provides circulating coolant finished the top coolant occupation down into the turbo then into the cylinder block to ensure any bubbles from the simmering coolant get purged.
The current coolant helps keep the turbo center housing temperature down at a commonsensible level to forestall coking of the oil in the turbo housing. The electric coolant pump is controlled by the afterwards-run temperature sensor and the after-ladder control unit.
When the Turbo cooling pump is turned on, the low-spirited fastness radiator fan is also turned on by the after-run control unit. For details on the operation and location of this sensing element, perish to After-run away scheme section below.
Note: When the engine is flying, the coolant flow is reversed, coming out the top of the turbo so over to the top radiator hose connection on the block. This electric coolant pump and copulative hoses are often over looked and tin fail at most inopportune sentence.
Go through below for inside information on the turbo cooling ticker and after-run temperature sensor.
CAUTION:The Turbo secondary electric water pump has plastic fittings which can break off piece working under the hood if you butt against the pump fittings and this butt spray HOT BOILING COOLANT on you causing severe burns.
I have had the "pleasure" of experiencing this and take up the burn scars to prove it. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES and PROTECTIVE CLOTHING while working around a fresh engine! The radiator fittings are as wel impressionable and these can break slay spell working around the engine.
You May want to take away the pump and test it in a bucket of water to make sure IT is still pumping. The pump uses a magnetically coupled impeller which can seize up, Beaver State fall apart as they get elder. Use some pinafore wires to put on 12V Direct current to the pump while you stick around it down in the bucket of water.
The pump has markings near the connector showing the positive + and electronegative - (ground) connectedness. There are two all-metal coolant pipes that are used to connect to the turbo and provide coolant into and out of the turbo. These metal coolant pipes have rubber hoses on each oddment where they colligate to the engine cooling system.
Along the 5 cylinder 10V engines, one of these hoses connects with a banjo fitting to the cylinder head coolant outlet. On the 5 piston chamber 20V engines, there is a rubber hose that connects from this metal pipe up to the coolant manifold on the cylinder channelize underneath the ingestion multiplex. On both the 10V and the 20V engines the other turbo coolant shrill connects to the engine obturate gist plug with a special rubber/Teflon jacket hosiery.
Check this hose for any leakage or failure. Along the 10V engines, the OEM rubber hose and fitting can be purchased from the dealer for gravid $$, or you can replace it with some hotness silicone or coolant bypass hose.
The 20V turbo rubberize hosiery can constitute replaced with a straight section of the befitting sized coolant hose often plant at many machine parts stores in molded shapes for other make vehicles.
We also carry the discipline Audi specified Hosiery for this application.
Fire injection hose could also be used in an emergency, but it won't last very long and will get rough quickly from the high temperature. On the 10V locomotive engine hose, the swedged connected clamp can be run aground off or cut off victimisation a hacksaw and then a conservative hose clamp and luxuriously temperature coolant hose can personify installed. The same can be aforesaid for the hose that connects the metal turbo coolant pipe to the side of the block to the immobilize hack nipple.
This pipe can be separate and the hose throne be replaced but you Crataegus laevigata require to consult with a hose specialist and find some high temperature hose to replace it. The original hose looks to ingest a Teflon liner inner the rubber hose. The freeze plug (core plug) with the nipple on that, should be checked for excessive corrosion and replaced if obligatory.
After-run Temperature-Sensing element and Afterwards-Endure Master Electrical relay
1986-91 5000/200 Turbo and Turbo Quattro 1992-95 Audi S4/S6
As mentioned, the turbo engines have this nice system of rules where the turbo cooling pump and the low quicken radiator fan amount happening for several minutes after the railway locomotive is shut down. Most engines will experience a rapid rise in coolant temperature after the engine is close down As the heat in the engine block, cylinder head, and from the turbo hot broadside is transferred into the coolant.
The 1992-95 Audi S4/S6 engine cooling system with the engine involuntary fan tends to control the coolant temperature advisable, so you may not hear the after-run system charge equally often. The normal test to check the aft run system which turns on the turbo cooling pump and humble speed radiator lover, is to run the engine at idle until the normal radiator devotee comes connected (2nd speed), then immediately shut off the engine. The low velocity radiator fan and turbo pump should wrench on inside about 5 minutes.
If they act non switch on, remove the two wires from the after-run temperature sensor (witness photo below to identify this thing) and tie in the wire terminals together, now with the wires adjoining together to bypass the sensor, the low fastness chilling fan and turbo cooling system pump should be aroused.
You can also cut down the rubber boots happening the two spade terminals connected this subsequently-run temp sensor and short across the terminals with a small metal screwdriver without removing them. If you remove the cardinal wires, keep off shorting them to ground, or you can blow the flux for this circuit.
The ignition does not have to be sexy, every bit this system should make up working with the engine/ignition off. On the Five piston chamber turbo engines (10V) the After-Running game Temp sensing element is mounted on the cylinder head top coolant outlet tobacco pipe that directs water to the radiator.
Check out the photo below
This after-run temporary sensor is used in coincidence with the subsequently test relay (control unit) to good turn on the low speed fan and turbo cooling pump. The afterward-scarper relay will limit the clock time (8-10 minutes) the down in the mouth rush along devotee and turbo cooling pump will run, to avoid running down the bombardment if the temporary switch should fail.
The 1991 200TQ 20V and S4 Turbo railway locomotive use the same after-run temp sensor but it is mounted top land on the cylinder capitulum water outlet pipe down the stairs the ingestion manifold.
Again, check the photo below for details.
1991 200TQ 20V Engine opinion of the aft-run sensor and MFTS
This after-pass over temp sensor is fashioned to bout on the low speed radiator rooter and turbo coolant pump when the coolant at the sensor reaches 110 degrees Celsius (230F), the detector will twist off the after-run system when the coolant temp drops down to 97 Celsius (207F). The sensor is as wel designed NOT to work above 130C to annul any problems, I suppose, if a fire should start in the engine compartment.
If the low speed buff and turbo coolant pump Don't come on when you connect the After-run temp Sensor wires together, check coalesce #21 (25 A) as this supplies +12V to the turbo cooling pump and to the temp change. Also check the wiring at the connector on the after run pump, as some vehicles provide +12V to the temp sensor via this connection.
The 1992-95 S4/S6 uses a different fuse or in some cases a circuit breaker, so you may need to hunt down around to notic IT. You can heck your owners extremity or Bentley Compensate extremity for the fuse number and location, but it normally doesn't show this circuit.
One 1992 S4 I checked had this After Play fuse/circuit breaker located next to the After Flow from control unit in the Aux III instrument panel, behind the rider side recoil panel. The fuse/circuit breakers bearer or socket should have a white/black wire and one Beaver State two red wires socially connected. If you exercise a +12V trial run light, or DMM, there should equal +12V along one of the wires (R/BK) connected to this temp switch and there should also be +12V happening the same colored telegram (R/BK) connected to the Turbo Ticker.
This fuse also supplies +12V to the injector cooling fan relay. If the after-run system fuse is ok, and you have +12V on the Red/Black wire connected to the temp sensing element and on the Flushed/Black wire at the turbo cooling pump, and connecting the temporary switch wires put together does NOT turn on the Turbo coolant heart surgery modest speed radiator fan, and then the after prevail relay and lowset speed fan relay/wiring should live chequered.
AFTER RUN RELAY (Ascendance UNIT) LOCATIONS 1986-88 5000T/Q models.
The Afterward-run electrical relay is affixed under the drivers root dash area on the aux electrical relay venire. On the 5000T/Q the small access venire or the lower dash cover panel can be removed to gain access to this relay. For the 10V 1989-90 200TQ's, and 1991 200 Turbos (FWD), it is normally behind the left go with quetch panel below the hood release lever, and the kick venire of necessity to be removed (pain in the butt).
For the 1991 200TQ's with 20V the after-run relay is in the aux relay panel below the drivers side dash circuit board area, the knee bar usually of necessity to constitute separate on these. A gentle pain in the rear.
See this section for inside information. The 1992-95 Audi S4/S6 has the aft scarper electrical relay situated behind the passenger (right) side kick empanel on the aux electrical relay jury III.
See photo below The same part numbered after extend to relay (control unit) is used by the 1986-88 5000T/Q, 1989-91 Audi 200TQ and the 1992-95 S4/S6.
In some cases the internal components (transistor or resistor) inside this after-run control unit get burned up on older high mileage vehicles and this may get the aft run fan or turbo cooling heart to run entirely the time yet with the ignition off which will certainly kill your battery in a short and sweet sentence.
Unplugging the after-run control unit should stop the fan operating theatre cooling pump from linear ceaselessly if the control unit is defective. It is a Genuine idea to have the Bentley wiring diagram with you while you unhinge-shoot the after run electrical relay Beaver State wiring, as there are close to elusive differences between the 5000T/Q, the 200T/Q and the 1992-95 Audi 100/S4/S6 with regards to the A/C and cooling system procedure.
The Bentley non-automatic wiring diagram for the 1992-93 S4 seems to exist missing the after-run system wiring and component information. I 1992 S4 I checked had this Aft Outpouring circuit breaker located future to the After Run controller unit in the Aux Relay Panel III as shown in the above photo (S73). This Aux Relay Panel III is behind the passenger go with kick panel.
The fuse/breaker holder or socket should have a white/black wire and one or two cherry wires affiliated to it. The 1994 S4 and 1995 S6 English hawthorn enjoyment a diametric numbered coalesce or breaker other than #S73, check the Bentley wiring plot for inside information.
The following tests were done on a 1987 5000TQ with the After-Run-Electrical relay remote, and will fit the wiring to the later-run relay.
I possess traded both the terminal numbering for the connector socket as shown in the Bentley manual, and the terminal enumeration that is shown connected the after-run relay itself. With the two wires on the temp switch connected together, and the Later on-trial relay remote, you should see +12V at endmost 2 in the connector socket (Period 30 pin on the after-run relay).
If you do not have +12V at Terminal 2 with the temp switch wires linked together, there is a wiring problem between the temp switch and the after run relay connector socket. End 6 on the connection socket should constitute grounded to the fomite body. (Terminal 31 on the after-run relay). Terminal 8 on the connector socket connects to the turbo coolant pump (BR/BK wire), (Terminal 87 on the after-run relay) and normally the after-run relay evidence this terminal to trip out the turbo coolant pump when the temp switch wires are connected together.
When you use a jumper conducting wire and ground this Terminal 8 connectedness, the Turbo heart should set out running. If the pump doesn't prevail when you ground Terminal 8, you either take up a wiring problem between the pump and the connector socket, or a dead turbo heart. You should dispatch the turbo chilling pump and try applying +12V and ground crossways the deuce terminals to see if the heart is turning.
You sack also place the pump in a bucket of water and see how symptomless it pumps. Terminal 5 on the connector socket (Terminal 87A on the after-run relay) normally provides a priming coat to the 1st stage radiator cooling rooter relay (#6) in the main mix panel under the hood "when" the temporary switch wires are connected together and the after-run electrical relay is working.
If you ground Terminal 5 in the connective socket, the 1st stage radiator winnow should spell happening. Terminal 4 (Terminal 15 on the after-run relay) gets +12V when the railway locomotive is spurting from the fuel pump electrical relay (Terminal 87A). If all of the above tests put to work as expected, and the Turbo pump and low focal ratio fan arrive on when you jumper across the connecter socket, the after-function relay is non working and should be replaced.
NOTE: The turbo pump is tough to tell when IT is running, sometimes (CAREFULLY IF HOT) placing your hand on the pump you can feel it running. This pump has a magnetically coupled impeller exclusive and it is not cheap to supercede if it is leaking OR if it stops pumping. If you are not fated if it is working, you may want to remove the pump when the railway locomotive is cool and test whether it is pumping aright aside applying +12V while the pump is in a bucketful of water.
USE EXTREME Precaution WHEN WORKING AROUND A HOT ENGINE, AS THESE PLASTIC TURBO COOLANT PUMPS CAN Check AND Nebulise HOT SCALDING COOLANT CAUSING Intense BURNS.
Auto-Check Arrangement: Cooling Arrangement Overheat Temperature Warning Indicator
The Auto-Check mark Organisation display (OK displayed happening start high), will give you a beep warning and express the display picture with the immature thermometer, whenever the coolant flat is too low in the expansion reservoir OR if the engine is overheating with a coolant temperature above 119 C, (247F).
The fluid level sensor in the behind of the coolant expansion reservoir will close and colligate the Auto-Check circuit connection to ground if the coolant level drops too low in the reservoir. In some cases the electrical connector terminals will corrode for this level sensor, and get a false signal to the Car-Check organisation. Removing the connexion at the bottom of the coolant reservoir, should stop the coolant level warning, if thither is a problem with the coolant level sensor. You motivation to restart the locomotive after unplugging the detector during this test.
The Multi-Function Temperature Sensor (MFTS) described below in more point, uses terminal 4/C to ground the unvaried circuit as the coolant level sensor to also signal to the Auto-Look into system when the coolant temperature in the piston chamber head gets too high. These sensors can equal a 4 time period model made by VDO or a 3 terminal model successful by Behr. Equally of Oct 2003, the 4 Terminal VDO brand is no more available, if I find another beginning for this 4 terminal sensor, we testament rent you know.
I ground that a few of the replacement 3 terminal substitute Multi-Function sensors I purchased for my customers vehicles failed afterwards 1-2 days and gave a "false" overheat signal to the Auto-Baulk system. See next section below for more details. I may wealthy person received a bad lot of these way game in 2002, but have not seen this trouble since that time.
Terminal 4/C on this MFTS provides this overheat ground signal to the Auto-Check System.
Unplugging the 4 terminal connecter to this MFTS will get rid of the Auto-Balk overheat symbolization if you think you have a defective sensor.
You call for to shut the engine slay, gulf the sensor connector and then restart the engine during this test. The Auto-Check system appears to have both clock time delay built in, that prevents the system of rules from immediately responding when the sensor is unplugged or reconnected.
A Fuse supplies +12V to the Auto-Check control unit and to the MFTS (4 terminal VDO version) connected some model years, so contain the applicable primer for your manikin vehicle if you have the 4 terminal sensor busy.
Coolant Types for VW/Audi
G 001 100 or ZVW 237 104 "Blue" non phosphate coolant is nominative for the majority of the VW and Audis built earlier 8/1996.
This is what we commend and use in all Audis prior to 8/1996 production. We have this blue coolant available in 1.5 cubic decimetre plastic bottles in the Pentosin brand.
A of 8/1996 later VW/Audi vehicles use the "RED" Lifetime occupy coolant Audi G012 A8D A1 or the VW Part number ZVW 237 G12,
Discove Overhaul Bulletin Information below. We have this red coolant available in 1.5 liter plastic bottles in the Pentosin brand.
The pursuing data is from a Divine service bulletin issued aside Audi of U.S.A:
Group 19 Number 96-01 Date: Oct. 30, 1996
Production: A new coolant, G 012 A8D A1 is being used in production as of 08.96. G 012 A8D A1 is colorful in color This newly industrial product permits a engine cooling system fill that lasts the service life of the engine and was designed with all aluminum engines in creative thinker.
Advantages: Improved corrosion security Built thermal stability Improved Heat change/control Improved Hard Water system tolerance Improve biological science protection
Care: G 012 A8D A1 is the only coolant to be used in the Audi A8. Use of any other coolant will resultant in engine damage.
Caution: G 012 A8D A1 must Ne'er personify mixed with Some other coolant.
Locomotive engine wrong will resolution.
Contamination of G 012 A8D A1 with other colored coolants is identifiable by stain (brown, purple, etc).
This mixture causes a foamy stick out to come out in the expansion tank/radiator. This impure mixture should be drained immediately and the chilling system flushed as described below.
Flushing subprogram: Engine at in operation temperature, with heater on.
Drain coolant, visit repair manual, Worldwide Engine, group 19 Lend oneself compressible air to expansion army tank to blow taboo remaining coolant
Close cooling system, fill with distilled water Run engine for a minimum of 2 proceedings Drain water and apply compressible air to elaboration tank as earlier Close cooling and fill with appropriate mixture ratio of G 012 A8D A1 and distilled water system Test Take, check coolant level and add if necessary.
Take down: G 012 A8D A1 coolant "English hawthorn" be used in older vehicles when the original coolant is exhausted and engine cooling system flushed as represented above.
Always inform customer that a new coolant is used and that ONLY water or G 012 A8D A1 be put-upon to replenish. End of Audi Service Bulletin:
| From the Bentley Repair Manual | |||
| Cooling System Capacities | Coolant | Distilled Piddle | Protection |
| Engine Code: NF/MC | 3.1 liters, (3.3 quarts) | 4.7 liters, (5.0 quarts) | -25C, -13F |
| Engine Code: NF/MC | 3.6 liters, (3.8 quarts) | 4.4 liters, (4.7 quarts) | -30C, -22F |
| Engine Code: NF/Mc | 3.9 liters (4.1 quarts) | 3.9 liters (4.1 quarts) | -35C, -30F |
| Engine Code: 3B (Five Piston chamber, 20V Turbo) | 3.4 liters, (3.6 quarts) | 5.1 liters, (5.4 quarts) | -25C, -13F |
| Engine Code: 3B (5 Cylinder, 20V Turbo) | 4.25 liters, (4.5 quarts) | 4.25 liters, (4.5 quarts) | -35C, -30F |
| Locomotive Code AAN (Phoebe Piston chamber 20V Turbo) 9 Litre capacity | 3.6 liters, (3.8 quarts) | 5.4 liters, (5.7 quarts) | -25C, -13F |
| Engine Code AAN (Five Piston chamber 20V Turbo) 9.0 liter capacity | 4.5 liters, (4.7 quarts) | 4.5 liters, (4.7 quarts) | -35C, -31F |
| Engine Code AHA/AFC 2.8 liter V6 engine 8V 8.0 liters | 4.0 liters (4.2 quarts) | 4.0 liters (4.2 quarts) | -35C, -30F |
Coolant Temperature Gauge-Overheat Word of advice: Multi-Function Temperature Sensor (MFTS)
If the Coolant Temperature Bore is acting upwardly and periodical in operation, or if you sustain a false overheating warning, a loss of boost imperativeness, or if you A/C compressor won't turn happening, the first thing to check is the large 3 or 4 terminal Multi-Function Temperature Sensor (MFTS).
Audi besides refers to this as the "Electronic Thermoswitch" in the wiring diagrams and the "Water Temperature Sensor" in most parts catalogs.
This MFTS is screwed into the bottom of the coolant outlet on the cylinder head of the 10V Five cylinder Turbo engines, and is situated on the coolant manifold pipe underneath the intake manifold on the 20V Five piston chamber Turbo engines. In addition to providing the signal for the coolant temperature gauge, information technology also provides an overheat signal to the A/C system to shut soured the compressor, an overheat signal to the Auto-Check system to discourage the driver, and an overheat signal to the Locomotive engine Control Unit to subdue hike functions (1986-91 5000T/Q, 200TQ 10V/20V only) in addition to organism the sending unit for the coolant temperature gauge.
Information technology is appropriately named the Multi-Function Temperature detector (MFTS). Most repair shops call them the "Multi-Mal-Function" sensor, as they fail over and once more and are not cheap to replace. The coolant gauge acerate leaf ordinarily should rise up to at to the lowest degree the foremost thin mark (left arrow) after driving the motorcar for 5-10 miles on the highway. If your gauge acerate leaf girdle down in the lower 3 markings, your thermostat may need to be replaced, or the Multi-function sensing element is no more functional.
As you drive the motorcar in stop and go traffic you will find that the judge needle will be somewhere between the two arrows shown below and the galvanising radiator fan will cycle off and on.
With close air temperatures to a higher place 90F, you may even see the gauge read higher to the right field. If the standard of measurement gets ascending to the 120C (248F) mark or to a higher place, your engine is overheating.
As mentioned, this sending unit buttocks have 3 or 4 concluding connections, the original sensor had 4 terminals and used +12V on terminal 3/+ and was made by VDO. These 4 terminal sensors would most often fail away not providing a signaling for the coolant temperature gauge.
There is also a replacement sensor that uses simply 3 terminals and eliminates the demand for the +12V terminal connection and are made by Behr. I ingest found that some of these 3 terminal sensors have failed o'er time with a false overheat alarum.
As of Oct 2003, the 4 terminal VDO sensor is no longer addressable from my regular list of suppliers, if this berth changes, we wish let you know. The 4 terminal sensors primitively lasted many years but would ultimately fail after 8-12 years, so clock time testament tell whether the 3 terminal social unit has the same life span.
Examination THE COOLANT GAUGE OPERATION:
If you get the original 4 concluding VDO brand sensing element, stool sure the +12V wiring connection (3/+) has baron. You could have a gasping fuse, check the wiring diagram for your vehicle.
If you unplug the connector from the sensor and ground the corresponding terminal 1/T (Br/Y wire) in the connector, the coolant temperature gauge in the instrumentate clustering should work to a max temporary worker reading material with the ign. key on.
Testing Other Functions of this Sensor:
Terminal 2/R provides a reason signal to the Engine Control Unit of measurement (1986-88 Audi 5000T/5000TQ and 1989-91 200T/200TQ) if the engine is running too hot (over 247F, 119C) which bequeath cut down the amount of boost the ECU will bring home the bacon.
You can temporarily run the automobile with the Multi-Function Temperature Sensor connector unplugged to verify if the sensor has malfunctioned and is causation the low boost problem.
Note: The 1992-95 Audi S4/S6 Engine Control Unit (ECU) does not use this finished temporary worker signal from the Multi-Mathematical function Temperature Sensor to lower boost when the railway locomotive overheats, it uses the sign from the ECU coolant temperature sensor mounted at the back of the piston chamber brain. The 1995 Audi S6 Crataegus oxycantha not have the +12V wiring connection for this sensor (Terminal 3/+, Black wire with profane stripes)
Terminal 2/R also provides a base bespeak from this Lapplander connection to the A/C control head unit which also will turn disconnected the A/C if the engine temporary worker. exceeds 247F.
If your railway locomotive is not overheating, and you suspect the sensor is malfunctioning, you should test this terminal 2/R connection (Blue wire with green stripe) to control that it is non grounded aside the sensor, from faulty wiring, or from corrosion.
The Terminal 4C connection (Blue wire with Yellow Stripe) goes to the Auto Check ascendance unit to admonish of feasible over warming. This wire is also well-connected to the coolant expansion tank level detector.
WIRING COLOR CODES
BL / Y is Blue with Yellow stripe
BK / BL is Black with Blue stripe
BR / Y is Dark-brown with Yellow stripe
BL / G is Amobarbital sodium with Green stripe
Connection problems: In or s cases the connector terminals can be corroded and will be causing a pinched connection. The rubber boot that is supposititious to protect the connexion, often times gets grizzly and hard and allows water/coolant to fill in the rubber boot and saturates the connector terminals and can cause corrosion problems.
Some folks possess cut dwarfish debilitate holes in their boot if the boot out is in good condition. If the boot is dropping apart, I usually carefully cutoff/remove the golosh boot from this connecter, and just allow the connector to be open to the air to allow any moisture to drain inactive the connective.
Vehicles located in any areas that tasty the roadstead should leave the synthetic rubber iron heel in place and/operating theatre replace as necessary. It is precise common for the gauge to begin working after this 4 pin connector is removed and installed owed to internal sensor connections being moved along the 4 terminal version of these MFTS.
If you remove the connector from the sending unit and look at it with the notch at the top, terminal 3 is at the amphetamine LEFT, terminal 4 is at the top RIGHT, depot 2 is at the glower RIGHT, and terminal 1 is at the turn down Left wing.
Often times this plastic connector is brickly, a new plastic connector housing put up be purchased from Audi, the part number is 893 971 974.
The crimp on terminals to go inside this new connection lodging are N 904 219 02, quantity 4 mandatory.
MFTS: Design Info
The original 4 terminal sensor was successful by VDO and is fairly complicated inside, sort of a mould of art. It has a ceramic hybrid board with several active and passive physical science components.
Construe photograph below.
4 Period of time MFTS by VDO
The 3 terminal version eliminated the requirement for +12V and is mechanical operative, as IT uses a thermal expanding pellet and 2 mechanised little-switches for the 2 overheat functions, and a regular Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) resistive element for the coolant temperature gauge operation. A NTC insubordinate chemical element, has a decreasing ohmic resistanc with exploding temperature.
See photo infra.
3 Final MFTS away Behr
Other things to note: (5000T/Q, 200TQ) Fuse #12 supplies +12V to the Multi-Function Temperature sensor along the underived 4 terminal sensors, so check your fuses. This fuse #12 also supplies +12V to the back heavenward lights and to the speedometer sending unit in the transmission. S4/S6, check the Bentley Wiring diagrams for the correct fuse.
Separate Failure Info: I wide up two of these 3 time period Behr units that had failed later on to a lesser degree one yr, and found that the inside of the sensor was full of engine coolant. It appears that the machined establishment housing somehow allowed coolant to seep into the micro transposition area, in good order through the rib portion that screws directly into the coolant passage.
It is possible that over-tightening the 3 terminal style sensor is causing the face threaded area of the sensor to crack and leak coolant into the detector internal contact area so wear't strong arm the sensor when installing it. Torque specification is 18 ft-lbs.
Other failure ideas: perhaps the brass was porous on these faulty units and allowed the coolant to ooze in.....More investigation is requisite......Just our theory at the moment.
Locomotive engine Control Unit (ECU) Coolant Temperature Sensing element
Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) System Coolant Temperature Detector
Info on these lonesome wire temperature sensors is located HERE
Engine Control Unit (ECU) Atmosphere Temperature Sensor
Information on this Air Temperature sensor is located HERE
Cooling System Hoses, Thermostat and Warmer Valve
All of the cooling system hoses should beryllium checked and replaced Eastern Samoa the car gets up there in mileage, say after 75-100k miles. The weensy cubitus hosiery at the back of the piston chamber head may need to beryllium replaced more much along with the plastic heater valve which connects to this hose. These deuce items take a beating from the exhaust heat due to the close proximity of the waste gate.
The warmer valve has a bad habit of break A the fictile gets hard and fragile over time, better to put back IT straight off than postponemen for it to explode while you are cruising down the main road. The fitting at the back of the cylinder promontory which is held in with one bolt has an O-ring which seals this proper to the head.
This O-ring put up also get hard and brittle and cause a coolant making water in that area. The Lower radiator hose and the short piece of rubber hose that connects the metal pipe along side the block should be replaced A the car gets over 100k miles.
THERMOSTAT
I would too recommend replacing the thermostat as the vehicle gets high miles, as I have seen some thermostats that stick open a little which get into't allow the engine to reach operating temperature as IT should. In other cases the thermostat leaping patronage arms can bankrupt and allow the coolant to flow in the least times, see photo of the broken in thermostat at a lower place.
If the Thermostat doesn't open completely, there won't make up enough water current through the radiator which can cause overheating, and there may not glucinium enough heatable piss flowing to allow the radiator rooter switch at the bottom of the radiator, to heat up and turn on the radiator fan.
The original factory Thermostat is designed to open around 87C and fold around 102C to regulate the coolant temperature.
Install the thermostat with the cross brace unbowed, orientated at 12 and 6 O'time
See the plane section above for details on correct operation of the coolant temperature gauge.
Running the engine at a lour coolant temperature collect to a imperfect thermostat tends to reduce the gas fuel consumption rate and May not allow the engine embrocate to get hot enough to vaporize any moisture in the oil and this can increase engine wear.
Some vehicle owners who viable in an area with a very hot climate (AZ) use a lower temp (80C) thermostat in the hopes that it will lower the underhood temperatures, merely I don't recommend its purpose. There are also radiator fan thermo switches that twist on the chilling fan at a bring dow temperature that are a great deal used in areas with hot climates, simply again, if the cooling is in good shape, and is working correctly, they really should not be necessary in my opinion.
Engines are Thomas More fuel efficient when they are pass at the hottest temperature they can stand without causing whatever problems. The upper radiator hosiery should make up removed and the plastic radiator neck curbed as these ass get brittle and discontinue.
Too check the small impressible fitting for the small return vent hosepipe that connects the radiator to the over flow armored combat vehicle. Too note that these plastic over flow tanks have a habit of cacophonic open over time as well, so you may want to remove it and check it for cracks. You can clean IT while you have it out of the car. The bubble over storage tank pressure cap buttocks leak or not hold pressure and should equal checked aside a radiator shop for correct mental process.
H2O Ticker Replacement
Many of the Audi/VW water pumps will ooze a small amount of coolant out of the "weep" hole at the worst of the water pump, this is advised normal and nothing to be interested about. Of course if a large sum of money of coolant is leaking out, the pump shaft seal is shot. Note that at that place was a change in 1989 to the use of a different timing knock with a bean-shaped tooth "Tops Torque Belt" and the urine pump/pulley assembly changed at the unvaried time.
The Cam and crank timing belt gears are different too. Make sure as shootin you don't install the wrong water system pump or wrong timing belt on the 1989 and later vehicles.
Go to the Railway locomotive incision for details on replacing the water pump and timing belt.
Radiator Blower Non Pouring 1990-91 Audi 100/200, 1992-95 Audi 100/S4/S6?
Check the Fusible Link or Blade Type fuse. Retrofit on older 5000/100/200 vehicles The 1990-91 Audi 100/200TQ's added a liquid inter-group communication which fuses the ground side of the cooling fan causative.
This fusible join is placed deep down a moderate black shaping trapping with a cover that pops up which is mounted next to the coolant finished flow tank. The following photograph shows this fusible link with the black cover removed.
The radiator cooling fan motor on the 5000/T/Q and early 1989-90 100/200TQ have a nasty habit of causation a complete meltdown of the wiring harness if the fan motor bearings seize ahead which creates a huge current suck from the fan motor.
This fusible link and moldable climb box can be added to the early framework cars to prevent a trouble should the buff motor seize up.
| Verbal description | Audi Part Act | Quantity |
| Fuse Box | 281 937 505A | 1 |
| 80A Fusible Link strip | N 017 125 3 | 1 |
| Screws for mounting wiring lug to melted link inside the combine box, M5 x 8 mm | N 014 128 11 | 2 |
| Lock washers for mounting fusible link | N 012 005 3 | 2 |
| Screws for mounting the fuse box to the angle bracket | N 013 966 26 | 2 |
| Lock chamber washers for mounting screws | N 011 556 2 | 2 |
| Bracket out for mounting fuse box, secures to the cooling artificial lake bracket | 443 971 845 AM | 1 |
I used two 10 gauge wires in parallel to tie in from the fuse box to the fan motor ground lug. The germinal ground wire from the fan causative rear make up connected to the fuse box.
The Audi V8 uses a look-alike fuse transcription for the radiator devotee and this is mounted inside the engine compartment on the left front pilot area bum the head lamp area.
The Littel combine catalog shows some fusible links for Mercedes applications that look to be the same size of it/shape every bit the 80A Audi N 017 125 3 fusible link. The catalog shows that 30, 50, 80, and 100 Amp versions are available. The 80A Littel Commingle part number is FBM 080.
Volkswagen put-upon a 50A variant of this fusible link N 017 125 1 in some of their Diesel applications, so double bridle that you get the 80A as these small parts sometimes get mixed up in their bins at the warehouse.
Many Auto parts stores now deal larger weapon system type fuses rated from 20-80 A and magnanimous heavy current flux holders which can work in this covering. One example is the "MAXI Blade Fuse" rated at 80 A that is easy from Littel conflate Eastern Samoa the "MAX 80" part number along with the "MAH 1" in-line MAXI fuse holder with 6 gauge electrify.
The initial starting time up modern for the 500 James Watt radiator fan motor can atomic number 4 passabl high >50-60 Amps and I believe this is the reason for the use of the factory 80 adenosine monophosphate melted relate evening though the steady state current is lonesome around 35-40 amps.
The later 1992-95 Audi 100/S4/S6 has a large leaf blade character 60A fuse located inside the car happening aux relay panel II which is the electrical relay instrument panel underneath the lower left kick panel on the drivers incline next to the hood publish.
Radiator
The Plastic radiators on these cars usually have a problem as they get old after 10-12 years where the upper radiator hose outlet gets fragile and snaps sour. Over tightening the radiator hose clamp posterior make this occur likewise. At that place was a factory bulletin that outlined a subroutine to repair the tamed neck with some epoxy simply you are better off replacement the radiator than relying on this method of repair.
If your after-run system is not working, this can aid prepare these plastic radiators after engine shut pour down and ruin the top plastic outlet a miniature sooner. The dwarfish over flow hose fitting is as wel very fragile and can break off as the plastic gets untempered over meter.
Be highly careful when replacing this small hose. It helps to carefully hand-hewn through this small hose remainder with a razor knife to remedy the tenseness on the microscopic fitting as you try and remove the hose. The factory replacement hose is successful with silicone rubber to stand firm the extended high temperatures.
On postgraduate mileage vehicles with the seminal radiator, I have besides seen the plastic pull tanks rip open and fracture and in past cases the aluminum side clamps can break and cause leakage at the side tanks. The substitution OEM Aluminum and plastic radiators give whatsoever piece of mind to avoid this type of failure happening high mileage vehicles and will unremarkably give some other 10+ years of sprightliness.
Equally mentioned previously, I would recommend replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses as well as the thermostat if your vehicle has over 100k miles on information technology to help prevent a breakdown on the traveling.
The 1991 200TQ 20V with the adjuvant radiator has two unneeded fittings on the side of meat tank in the radiator which makes the replacement plastic/aluminum radiator "unique" for this one yr vehicle.
RADIATOR Remotion and REPLACEMENT:
The plastic shroud/cover needs to make up removed that is in front of the radiator, remove the 2 Phillips screws and incomparable 10mm plastic nut. The upper radiator fend for mount with bracket on the unexpended is removed, Eastern Samoa well as removing the loony from the rubber mount on the right side top. The condenser in front of the radiator has 2 bolts/batty, then you need to draw ou connected the condenser slightly to undergo the condenser let down metal bracket up and past strike information technology forward taboo of the radiator recess.
With the engine cool, remove the lower radiator hose to drain out the coolant, have an appropriate container to catch the coolant soh you can dispose of it in good order. Along the radiator fan flip retire the prophylactic reboot slimly and then pull the connection out. Murder the upper radiator hose, and the aux radiator hoses happening the 20V's. I leave the radiator buff/shroud on the radiator in place happening the radiator and remove the wiring from the fan motor and subsequently-run pump and carefully push the after run heart direct the safe supports a little to get IT out of the way.
You May need to tie these wiring harness out of the way of life to avoid catching them on the fan motor. Murder the coolant reservoir 3 Phillips screws, the reservoir electrical sensor connector plug, and remove the hose from the bottom of the artificial lake.
At the bottom of the radiator, the 5000's and early 100/200's have 1 lower rubber mount, the 1990 and later 100/200's and 1991 200TQ 20V's usually have two depress prophylactic mounts. You need to remove the 13mm hex nut(s) with washer, as advantageously as the two 10mm bolts with washers that secure the plastic air ducting to the bottom of the radiator.
There is also plastic clip on a wiring tackle that needs to cost popped loose from the plastic radiator fan shroud down from downstairs. You need to either bump off the fender liner on the driver side OR get rid of the power steering ticker to allow tilting the radiator for remotion upward.
If you bump off the P/S Ticker, on the 5000/100/200's with 10V locomotive engine, you can leave the hydraulic lines on the pump, and just unbolt the pump and carefully swing it up over the valve cover area and use some wire to keep back it away from the radiator area. For the 1991 200TQ 20V's, it is easier to remove the fender liner, otherwise you need to remove the P/S pump completely.
If you decide to remove the P/S pump anyhow to allow acquiring to the another cooling hoses down on a lower floor, you should clamp off the suction side hose to forbid loosing all the fluid, then remove the 3 banjo bolts, and unbolt the brake accumulator metal job from the backwards of the pump and remove the hoses/lines from the pump. Put the hose down ends in a elastic bag and tie up them up and out of the way over the uptake manifold area. On the pump, remove the pin and accommodation round the bend/bolts, pull the bang away the pulley-block and so remove the pump while avoiding spilling too much fluid.
With the p/s pump out of the way, or with the fender lining removed, this allows vacillation/rotating the radiator adequate the left-of-center and out from underneath the fender area. Straight off you can slay the bring dow 10 mm bolts and upper 10mm bolts on the fan shroud.
Spell you have the radiator out of the car, you should replace the lower radiator hop on(s), the 2 upper rubberize mounts, the radiator fan switch, the glower radiator hose, the short hose behind the thermoregulator, and the turbo cooling hosiery wired to the bimetal pipe. You can besides substitute the coolant reservoir hose, pep pill and lower while you are in there.
If you have non through with the thermostat in the last 2 years, replacing it is a good idea. You potty bang out the system of rules with the thermostat removed, and by removing the rear hose at the back of the piston chamber pass which connects to the heater valve. When installing the radiator you need to be overcareful non to smash or damage the small reservoir proper that is under the fender area.
3 Speed Radiator Fan, Radiator thermoswitch, Fan Relays, Fan Tests
This information applies straight to the 1986-88 Audi 5000T/Q, 1989-91 Audi 200T/Q.
Some information applies to 1992-95 Audi 100/S4/S6 but check your wiring diagram to assert.
Banknote: The 1990-91 Audi 100/200 added a fusible link (80A) for protecting the radiator buff wiring which is located in the locomotive engine bay below the coolant source.
Fit the fuse section above for details.
The 1992-95 Audi S4/S6 used a 60A super steel type fuse that is located in the breast area happening the Aux relay panel II. This Aux relay panel II is settled underneath the pall on the drivers slope, underneath the lower left-handed kick panel.
The radiator cooling fan is frame-up to have 3 operating speeds, debased speed (1) when the A/C is wrong-side-out on and likewise when the afterward run relay is turned along after engine close up. The 2nd pelt along is used most of the clock when the dual temperature radiator thermoswitch activates at the lower turn connected temperature.
NOTE: The Bentley manual describes this thermoswitch every bit controlling the 1st and 2nd belt along radiator fan, but the Bentley does not include the worst stop number of radiator fan functioning, which occurs when the Air conditioning (A/C) is in operation and also the low speed when the radiator buff operates for a short time aft the vehicle is shut off (after-lam fan).
If you include this lower amphetamine radiator fan mathematical process, the two temperature radiator thermoswitch in reality controls the 2nd (medium) and 3rd (towering) speed radiator cooling fan. The 2nd speed fan uses a relay underneath the hood in the main fuse/relay box.
The 2nd speed fan can also seminal fluid on from the action at law of the A/C high coerce switch, as the high side pressure increases enough and requires more heat transfer finished the condenser, and so the 2nd speed fan is required.
The 3rd speed Oregon HIGH speed or "Fountain ENGINE ROAR" speed is controlled by the two temp radiator thermo switch and a 70 amp relay underneath the driver lateral dash panel. 1992-95 Audi S4/S6 have all 3 relay race located in the briny fuse/relay venire under the hood. When the high temp portion of this switch is steamy, the relay is actuated and full battery voltage is sent to the radiator devotee for the 3rd or broad hotfoot operation.
Delight note, that if you find you have more or less burnt 2nd/3rd speed relays, or wiring, you may have a dying radiator fan motor that is drawing too more than current and overloading the wiring and relay race. You may also have some loose wiring connections at the relay race, which fanny lawsuit the wiring/connections to overheat during heavy current draw.
See under for inside information happening installing the radiator fan liquid link, which may help foreclose wiring/electrical relay damage or electrical fires when the radiator fan dies operating theater seizes up and causes a huge new draw on the wiring/relay system.
2ND AND 3RD Hasten RADIATOR FAN TESTING
NOTE: If the Thermostat doesn't open completely, there won't be plenty water flow through the radiator which can cause overheating. It is too practicable that there won't cost enough hot water streaming to allow the radiator fan switch at the bottom of the radiator, to screw up and wrench on the radiator fan.
Combined way to test the 3rd operating room High Speed operation of the radiator fan, is to "temporarily" remove the 2nd belt along lover relay from the fuse/relay corner under the toughie, and allow the railway locomotive idle until the High Hie fan turns on. Keep an center on the coolant temporary gauge to ensure the car doesn't overheat during this mental test, if the high-level velocity sports fan ne'er turns on.
Make a point you re-install the 2nd hie fan electrical relay after doing this run. As mentioned, the radiator has a three terminal thermoswitch (temp sensor switch) that switches for deuce different temperature ranges. This thermoswitch is screwed into the lower part of the radiator army tank just below the bottom radiator hose joining.
Here is a pic display this change over with it removed from the radiator.
Period 3 receives +12V via fuse S15 (25 Amp).
Terminal 1 connects to the 3rd speed relay, and when the thermoswitch closes it provides +12V to turn happening this 3rd stage relay which sends full +12V to the radiator fan motor.
Terminal 2 connects to the 2nd Stage Electrical relay and when the thermoswitch closes it provides +12v to turn on this 2nd stage electrical relay which sends +12V to the resistance clique (E2 to E3) to swing some potential difference for the 2nd speed fan operation. (See On a lower floor for details on testing the resistor face pack)
NOTE: This thermoswitch terminal numbering corresponds to the Bentley wiring diagram, but comprise aware that some of these thermo switches are marked inside by the terminals, from left to proper as + 2 1 which toilet constitute confusing. If you remove the electrical connector from this thermoswitch, hither is the corresponding terminal numbers pool that equate the numbering I used in the photograph of the thermoswitch.
To test the 2nd and 3rd hotfoot operation, consumption a jumper electrify across this connector, first jumper across Terminal 3 and 1 with the ignition upset on, the fan should come on high or 3rd speed presumptuous the 3rd speed rooter relay and wiring are ok.
If you insert the jumper wire across Terminals 3 and 2, the rooter should come on medium Oregon 2nd speed provided the ignition is turned along, the 2nd speed fan relay and wiring are very well and the radiator fan resistor pack is ok. (See details below for testing the radiator fan resistor pile). If the fan does non come on during the to a higher place 2 tests, connect a 12V test lamp across the radiator rooter motor connections and do the 2 tests once again. The test lighted should draw close during the tests to indicate the 2nd and 3rd stage fan relay race and wiring are ok.
If the test light does not turn on, use the Bentley to check the wiring and 2nd and 3rd present radiator fan relays. If the devotee doesn't run simply the test light is coming on during the two tests, the radiator fan drive is likely kaput but do the following test without doubt.
RADIATOR Lover TEST
One basal test you give the sack also do for the radiator fan motor, is to plug in +12V to the radiator fan motor directly from the electric battery pinny post to witness if it spins. You should first disconnect the positive wires on the fan motor (tape them to avoid shorts during the test) and use some heavy judge wire (8 or 10 gauge) or a Electric battery jumper cable television to connect to the sports fan motorial.
You should draw predestined the lover spins freely and does not have taken over bearings in front disagreeable to jump start information technology or the jump shot wire could suffer a melt retired. The buff draws about 40-50 amps during initial start, so expect some serious sparking when you first connect the jumper wire. Be sure to keep your hands away from the fan blades during this try.
If the fan doesn't run, you can also join a 8 or 10 gauge wire Oregon jumper cable from the cylinder block to the undercoat slope of the fan to ensure the fan is acquiring a discriminating ground connection. Happening the future 1990> Audi 100/200's with the fusible link for the fan basis wire, I experience seen this fusible radio link undergo cracked or induce excessive corrosion along the terminals which prevented the fan from working at all.
RADIATOR TEMPERATURE SWITCH INFO
The 10V Turbo and 20V turbo specify the same part number for this switch. This switch specifies a turn happening temp of ~95 C for the 2nd speed fan, round off at ~84C. The fiche shows the turn on temporary of ~102C for the third cannonball along radiator devotee, wrench off at ~91C. I have noticed that some aftermarket replacement sensors are available that operate the radiator fan at turn down devolve on temperatures (85C and 93C respectively) but I don't loosely recommend using these, as the cooling system should work pulverized under entirely temperature conditions if the correct coolant mixture ratio is used, and everything is operating correctly.
On my ain 1989 200TQ I found my gas fuel consumption rate born 2 MPG when using this lower berth temporary worker radiator fan switch. Some citizenry have chosen to use these lower temp radiator fan switches because they sleep in a very hot climate country and they want to reduce the underhood temperatures. In a few cases when this 2 temp thermoswitch acts up and is defective, the 2nd speed radiator fan will descend on for a short time and then go over. In other failure modes, the radiator fan swop volition short connected all the time, and preserve the radiator lover running whenever the kindling is on. The buff can besides stay along due to a defective 2nd or 3rd stage relay if the internal electrical relay contacts get welded together.
RADIATOR FAN RESISTOR Bundle TESTS
If the 1st or 2nd speed buff is non coming on, you may want to check the gigantic resistor pack with aluminium heat sink mounted down below the front of the radiator on the frame. This huge resistor pack is old to drop the voltage to the radiator fan motor to provide the 1st and 2nd speeds. Often multiplication the 2nd speed fan will stop working due to this resistor pack getting burned up.
Here is a photo of this resistance pack that is utilized on the 5000/200T/Q with it removed from the fomite frame location. The S4/S6 has a similar resistance jam unofficially of the drivers go with frame rail in.
The 3 Terminals along the resistor large number are selected E1, E2, and E3.
On the 87-88 5000T/Q, E1 should have a Red/Chromatic band wire, E2 should have a Red/Blue stripe wire, E3 should receive a Black/Red Stripe wire. The 89-91 200TQ shows E1 with a Cherry wire, E2 with a White wire, and E3 with a Blacken or Black/Blood-red stripe wire.
Check your wiring diagram for the 1992-95 S4/S6 vehicles for whatever changes. The electrical resistance from E2 to E3 is only ~0.2 ohms and the 2nd speed fan current flows finished this resistance and drops some voltage for correct 2nd speed process, the underground from E1 to E2 is also ~0.2 ohms.
The resistance from E1 to E3 is ~0.4 to 0.5 ohms and this measurement goes through deuce resistance's (E1 to E2, then E2 to E3) which are old to drop more voltage for the 1st speed (low) radiator fan. If the resistance element from E2 to E3 George Burns skyward, you volition lose the 1st and 2nd speed operation, if the electrical resistance from E1 to E2 burns up, only the 1st speed (low) will stop functioning.
Accurately measuring a elflike resistance value on this resistor pack is baffling as it requires an accurate Digital Multimeter (DMM) and requires you to zero prohibited the resistance of the test leads.
If you measure a drunk resistance or open racing circuit between E1 and E2 operating theatre between E2 and E3, you crapper represent pretty confident that the resistor coterie is malfunctioning.
Different NOTES: 5000TQ: The 2nd speed devotee can also get stuck connected due to the relay contacts getting welded together, there was a service bulletin issued about this problem. Whenever the ignition key is off the 2nd speed fan should NOT be running play.
Only the contemptible speed fan should come happening from the after run relay when the ignition key is turned off. If only the low speed fan is "not" working when the A/C is turned on, check the relay in position #6 under the hood in the chief fuse box.
Also check the After-extend to relay and wiring, as the 5000T/Q uses this relay to turn on the rock-bottom hurry when the railway locomotive is flying and the A/C compressor is activated. 1989-91 200TQ, and 1992-95 S4/S6, check the wiring diagram for whatever changes.
S4/S6 Serpentine Belt Tensioner Failure
If you are auditory sense any growling or bearing related noises when the railway locomotive is running, you may want to check the Serpentine Whack Tensioner pulley-block bearing. These can fail and if they sequester up the Serpentine belt can get torn up and spend a penny a mess in the front of the engine.
You put up practice an adjustable crescent wrench to grip the tipto of the tensioner and twist the tensioner to the right, so tuck a round pin operating theater drill bit in to the hole in the front of the tensioner, to concur the tensioner in the relaxed position.
Then you tail remove the 3 allen bolts that time lag the tensioner assembly to the front end of the engine and move out the assembly to check the aim for looseness of the bowels or noise when you spin the tensioner roller. IT is our understanding that the roller load-bearing itself is not available, and the entire tensioner needs to Be replaced.
S4/S6 Engine Driven Fan Viscous Coupling Failure
The 1992-95 Audi S4/S6 uses an engine driven cooling fan which utilizes a Viscous Sports fan coupling that changes the speed of the fan depending on the outside temperature and temperature of the air flowing through the radiator and A/C condenser.
The Viscid Coupling can bust and have too much go with to side play which allows the plastic cooling fan to arrive at the power steering ticker pulley and break the formative lover blades off. These broken plastic winnow pieces can past pay off jammed into the radiator and pierce the radiator substance and cause coolant leakage.
This leads to a selfsame expensive indemnify! According to the Bentley repair manual, the plastic fan should non have to a greater extent than 15mm (0.59 inch) side to side play when measured at the outer edge of the plastic fan. This 15mm spec may exist a little likewise loose, and may allow the sports fan to remov the ticker bully before getting this haggard out, sol check your fan play if your car has any gasoline mileage.
Two special tools are required to remove the Viscous devotee union, a thin 32mm wrench (Audi tool 3312) and a wrench tool with two hardened pins (Audi 3212) to hold the sticky fan pulley. The Thick Coupling nut is loosened by turn it to the left, counterpunch clockwise (regular threads).
When tightening this coupling using the 3312 wrench, the torsion obligatory is 27 ft-lb, exploitation a typical 32mm wrench, the torsion is 52 ft-lbs.
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1991 Olds Ninety Eight Low Speed Fans Relay
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